Part 2 - and most thought I wouldn't get to it!

    

    It is quite challenging to keep the steam when writing about a trip. I have often lost steam after Day1, but this time I am determined. As we were determined to finish every single day of our trek completely.

    Day 2 - we were up at the lark and while the kids snoozed some more - we explored the area around and enjoyed the gurgling of the little stream and sunrise.


    Mili was happy to see the mules had returned to the camp - they had gone down to the village for the night. We were moving to a different camp site for the night. So, after the morning ritual, we packed all our luggage again and after an energizing breakfast of cereals, yummy toast with hot hot soft omelettes, we were ready - packed with water bottles, juice, energy bars , fruit a piece and chocolate. Our guide carried our lunch. 

    Despite the sun shining bright it was quite chilly and the kids were all bundled in their fleeces still. Today's trek was to the namesake of the trek - Kuari Pass. We were going to gain about 1000m in altitude today. Nanda Devi was totally hidden in this route. The Peaks of Dunagiri and Trishul followed  us all through, and so were the faithful Hathi Ghoda and the hide-and-seek Nilkanth. 

    We trudged up through slopes covered with golden grass and rhododendron, stopping every now and then to catch our breath and take a look at the snow covered peaks in the distance for inspiration. It was a hard climb - I lead the way following the guide closely , followed by Maya and at the end were DH inspiring Mili by taking small small steps and loads of inspirational words. She really needed it that day. 



"There you see Haathi Ghoda"
    Once a while, it was nice to see the path that we had crossed and feel an achievement wala feeling.


"Can you spot the brave trekkers. Come on peepsees (as Maya says these days) you can do it!"

 
    

    Did I say it was a hard climb ? Oh no ... these kids make it look so easy. See....



    Nearly at 3/4th of the journey we reached a small temple with a bell. Kiran told us that this is point that we would have to return to, and go further down to reach the camp site for the night - Khullara Valley.


    From here the trail changed and it was more of rocks. Passing a sweet little stream, we started our final ascent to the top of Kuari Pass. What a sweet achievement it was climbing that last 10 steps to reach the rocks piled up previous trekkers. Even Mili forgot all her exhaustion on reaching the top. 



So, after walking for 5 and half hours it was finally time for ...


... the "Wall Picture"

    What is the "Wall Picture" ? So, we have this long wall that runs from our sitting room to our dining room. We had this idea of putting up 1 or 2 best pictures from each of our trip - right from 2004 on the wall. The DH was insistent that despite COVID he will get pictures on the wall for 2020 and so this was the "Wall Picture". (Pssst.... we have run out of wall space and had to move on to a new wall BTW).

    After taking pictures and soaking in the 360 degree views from atop, we descended a bit down to some plain lands to sit and enjoy our yummy yummy lunch of pulao, boiled egg and aloo jeera... Even Mili took second helpings .. It was that yummy.. 
And yes.. our guide carried that huge hot pack in his backpack!

    Tummies full, we started the descent towards the "Bell" place and walked down from there for about an hour before we could sight our camps - what a glorious feeling it is to see those tiny triangles!!! 





    Khullara valley - that was our camp for two nights. It is one of the most beautiful places to rest that I have ever seen in my life. To one side was a 270 degree view of the mountain ranges - countless mountains and to the other side was the slope that we had walked down. I just cannot describe in words the peaceful sorroundings.
    As before there was a small stream that was gurgling through the valley. This one was a little louder and bigger than the one previous night - so we could hear its sound even at night in the tent. 


    That reminds me of something - once darkness descends in the mountains, it is pin drop silence .. it is so eerie that you can even hear your breath.. no night insects , no wind through the trees - Nothing .. it is Shoonya .. 
    After our ritualistic tea, we stepped out of the dining tent to capture the mountains afar glowing in the rays of the setting sun.

    After playing a raccous game of UNO, we were ready for soup of the day - Noodles soup. Today was Papad accompainment for the soup. This was followed by a Chinese dinner - noodles, fried rice and Palak momos. The cook - Karan - simply had magic in his hands .. I forgot to mention, they ensured that every meal was followed by a sweet. If it was banana custard the previous night, the second night's dessert was outsanding - Lemon Tart - it was probably the best ever lemon tart I have ever tasted - and to have made it without a blender / microwave or any gadget of any sort!!! 
    Rumbly-Tummies full we made way to the sleeping tent admiring the star studded carpet above us and promptly slipped into our sleeping bags. I would not say that we all slept soundly in the tents every night. Each one of us had our own fair share of issues - somebody had a hurt head, while another felt very cold.  But it certainly was a blessing to be resting our tired limbs. 
    Day 3 dawned bright and a bit frosty. The mountains were being given a golden bath in the first rays of morning.




    Today was going to be a tough trek. According to our itinerary it was a free day for us or a trek to the Pangarchulla peak and back. Kiran decided that we should do the smaller of the two Pangarchulla peaks as the first one - and the taller one - had too many rocks on the climb and it was a bit dangerous with kids. At this point , we were even doubtful if we could do the smaller peak. It was going to be a one and half hours of climb to the "bell" and a futher 5 hours ascent to reach the peak and we had to do all of this by 2, so that we would have enough time to come back to the camp before darkness set in. We all vowed to do our best. 
    In her explorations in the morning, Mili found skeletal remains of a mule. At our campsite, we also found a beautiful white mule - the kids named here - Lily. She would just be grazing all around the clock.


    Today's breakfast was cereals , toast and very very yummy egg burji ... After filling our bellies, we started off prompt at 8am. 


    As much as we enjoyed the walk downwards from the bell, we strugged as much to go upwards now. 

    

    Kiran , our guide, had estimated the climb to the bell to be about an hour and half ; but we surpassed expectations and made in an hour. Yaa! That certainly deserves a small break and a photo.


    From beyond the bell, was a walk along the ridge of the mountain. We climbed up and over 2-3 mountains, before making the final ascent to our mountain of the day - Pangarchulla. And guess what we made it there , well before 2 pm. We were there at about 1 ... Kudos! kiddos... you did a GREAT job! It was certainly one of the toughest climbs I have ever done. After every 10 steps up or so, I had to catch my breath - and Mili - a sip of the juice. But the vistas on the way made it really worth the climb. 











    It became very cold when we reached the top and the fog was coming on pretty strongly. It was also getting very windy. The helper at our camp, Balbir started 2 hours after we left the camp and caught up with us halfway up carrying our lunch. Looking at him come up was like watching a mountain goat skip up and down the mountains. 


That is the Pangarchulla - 1 peak at the back.

    We decided to have lunch there itself. All of us were quite famished. And what a lunch it was - fit for a king! Paratha, bhindi subzi, aloo subzi , boiled eggs and would you believe what was dessert ?? A huge watermelon. Balbir had carried it all on his back - I just could not believe it !! 

    And .. we were ready to go back down ..


    The descent was much easier than the climb. I was a bit wary going down, I have this fear that I will slip and fall. Kiran and Balbir were recounting all the various treks they had done to Kuari Pass and stories. Apparently the climb to Pangarchulla , when done in winter - starts at 2 am in the MORNING!!! OMG! I cannot believe that and they said it one straight climb upto the summit - no stumbling over rocks, no walking along thin ridges nothing!!! 
    Soon we reached the bell.. and very soon we were back to the gurgling stream.. It had started to get pretty cold and windy already.


    That night's dinner was extra special. It was Italian menu - salad, pasta, Pizza and french fries starting with mushroom soup - it was so yummy and the mushrooms cut so small that even I gobbled it all up. Popcorn to accompany the soup got over completely. The Dessert was special - as it was our last night at the camp. Karan had baked a cake for us and he had even wrote something special on it. 


    We had bittersweet feelings while retiring in the tent that night, as it was going to be our last night in the tent. On one hand we got to go back to civilization, hot water baths and comfortable beds - but on the other hand we would miss the peace and tranquility of the mountains.. Just when we thought, we had seen, or rather heard it all, we had a surprise very early next morning ... What ? ... Read the "Conclusion" to find out .. 

Maya's blog and Mili's blog

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